Hair Oils

Hair Oils: When They Nourish and When They Just Seal

Hair oils don't all do the same job, which explains why two women may have completely different experiences with the same bottle. Some actually penetrate the hair shaft. Coconut oil, avocado and to a large extent olive oil have a molecular structure that allows them to pass through and reduce water swelling of the hair. Others, like jojoba, almond oil and most silicone-textured oils, stay on the surface and act as a seal, keeping in the moisture that is already there.

The misconception is that oil hydrates. It doesn't hydrate because it doesn't contain water. It greases and traps. That's why an oil on completely dry, dehydrated hair gives shine but not softness. The right thing is to apply it to damp hair or over a moisturizer.

Three Ways to Use an Oil

Before Shampooing

The favorite technique for very dry, coarse or curly hair. Apply generously to dry hair, leave it for thirty minutes to an hour and then shampoo as usual. This way the hair doesn't absorb too much water in the shower and suffers less stress.

After Shampooing, on Damp Hair

Two to four drops along the lengths before drying. The oil reduces brush friction and helps the hair look smooth. At the same time you can choose a hair serum, which has a lighter feel.

On the Scalp, with Massages

Daphne oil, castor oil and almond oil are traditionally used for scalp massages before shampooing. The finger movement helps to relax, while the oil facilitates the removal of flakes in the next shampoo. If you have oily scalp, stick to the lengths and see the suitable shampoos.

Which Oil for Which Hair

• Argan: balanced choice, suits almost all types and gives shine without weight.
• Coconut: one of the few that penetrate, ideal for preparing before shampooing coarse hair.
• Jojoba: its consistency is similar to skin sebum, very light, good choice for fine hair.
• Almond Oil: mild and economical, classic for massages and for children's hair.
• Daphne: traditional Greek choice for the scalp, with a characteristic aroma.
• Castor Oil: very thick, needs dilution with a lighter oil to spread.
• Dry Oils in Spray: for quick finishing and shine on dry hair, without greasy feeling.

Brands You'll Find

In pure vegetable oils, the Apivita Natural Oil offers organic jojoba and daphne in small packs, while Health Aid and Now Foods cover almond and castor oil in larger quantities. The Chemco almond oil in a one-liter pack is one of the most sought-after products in the category, mainly for body and hair massages. In beauty care oils, the Ogx with argan, coconut and keratin, the Klorane with mango oil for dry hair, the Rene Furterer Absolue Keratine for intense wear and the Natura Siberica Oblepikha for distressed lengths stand out.

How Much and When

Always start with less. Two drops for fine hair, four for medium, more only for very coarse or curly hair. Warm the oil in your palms and apply from the ends upwards. If you put it from the root, the hair will look greasy from the first hour. In preparation before shampooing you need two shampooings to remove it completely. Oils have no sun protection: for sun and sea there are special sunscreens for hair.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Oil Help Hair Grow?

Length is determined by the follicle and not by the hair surface. What oil does is reduce breakage at the ends, so hair maintains the length it already has instead of losing it.

Can I Use It on Dyed Hair?

Yes, on the lengths. Avoid heavy applications for the first forty-eight hours after dyeing, because the shampooing that will be needed afterwards will wash out the color.

Does It Soil the Pillow?

If you do an overnight application, yes. Use an old towel or cap, or prefer dry oil in spray that absorbs much faster.

How Long Does a Vegetable Oil Last?

Most last six to twelve months after opening, away from light and heat. If it smells rancid, don't use it.

The information on this page is for informational purposes and concerns cosmetic products. They do not replace the advice of a dermatologist or pharmacist. In case of known allergy to nuts, check the composition before use.