Face Oils

Face Oils: what does oil do that cream doesn't

A face oil does not hydrate in the strict sense of the term, because it does not contain water. What it does is replenish lipids and limit the evaporation of the moisture that already exists in the skin. A cream, on the other hand, is an emulsion: it contains both water and a fatty phase, so it provides moisture and locks it in at the same time. That's why oil doesn't replace cream. It either complements it, or it is used on skin whose main problem is a lack of lipids, not a lack of water.

The second misconception concerns oiliness. Oil on dehydrated skin without a previous hydration step simply locks in nothing. The face will shine and will still pull.

Comedogenic and non-comedogenic oils

Comedogenic is a term for an oil that has the tendency to contribute to the formation of blackheads, i.e. moments inside the pore. It is not an absolute term: it depends on the concentration, the overall formula and the skin itself. However, as a general guideline:

• Low risk: squalane, jojoba, camellia, nightflower, rosehip, hemp, mallow. Jojoba is technically a wax with a composition close to human sebum and rarely creates an issue.
• Medium risk: argan, almond, sesame, olive oil. Well tolerated by dry skin, less so by combination skin.
• High risk for acne-prone skin: coconut oil, wheat germ oil, cocoa. Excellent for the body, problematic for face with imperfections.

If your skin easily marks, see the section on oily skin and acne before adding oil to your routine.

Popular formulas and brands

The BIO OIL PurCellin is the most recognizable multi-purpose oil of the pharmacy, while the Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse has established the category of dry oils for face, body and hair. The Apivita Natural Oil and the Apivita Beevine Elixir cover from single-ingredient plant oils to the most complex face formulas. For evening care, popular are the Caudalie Overnight Detox Oil, the Froika Premium Night Drops and the Darphin Eclat Sublime. Among cleansing oils, the Bioderma Sensibio Cleansing Oil and the ISDIN Isdinceutics Essential Cleansing stand out, while the Korres Pure Greek Olive and the Messinian Spa cover the Greek herbal approach.

The order of application: oil goes last

The rule is from the most fluid to the richest texture. Practically: cleansing, toning lotion, serum, cream, and then the oil. The reason is simple. Oil forms a hydrophobic barrier on the surface. Anything that comes on top has a hard time passing through, while anything that has come from below stays and is protected from evaporation. A hyaluronic serum on top of oil is almost a waste.

The only exception is in the morning, when it follows sunscreen: there the oil goes before the sunscreen or, even better, stays for the evening. Two to three drops are enough for the whole face. Warm them in your palms and press gently, do not rub. Alternatively, one drop mixed into your cream gives a lighter version. Two more practical points: oils oxidize, so prefer dark glass bottles and away from light, and citrus essential oils can increase photosensitivity, so they are a matter of evening use.

Frequently Asked Questions

I have oily skin. Can I use oil?

Yes, with a squalane or jojoba option and in small amounts. Many oily skins are also dehydrated and respond well, as long as the step of hydration from below is not missing.

Does it replace my moisturizer?

In very dry skin only, sometimes. For most, the facial moisturizer remains the step that provides water, and the oil comes on top to keep it.

How often do I use it?

Daily if the skin asks for it, usually in the evening. In winter the need increases, in summer many limit it to two to three times a week.

The oil stains my pillowcase.

It means that the amount is greater than what your skin absorbs. Reduce to two drops and give it ten minutes before lying down.

The text is for informational purposes and concerns facial oil cosmetics. For acne or persistent blemishes, discuss the choice with a pharmacist or dermatologist.